Is it possible that one of the best delis in the Twin Cities is in an Eden Prairie strip mall run by two guys named Jack?

It sure is.

It was 30 years ago when I came face-to-face with my first honest-to-God deli sandwich, at Rose’s Deli and Bakery in Portland, Oregon. Memories of that incredible thinly-sliced rare roast beef pilled sky high on caraway rye bread still linger.

Since then, every big city I visit, I try to find the best Jewish delis. My quest has taken me to several of the great ones – Katz’s, Stage and Carnegie delis in New York City being atop the leader board. Since arriving in the Twin Cities 15 years ago, however, my quest has been more or less dormant.

Sure, there are some decent Jewish delis in town, Brothers Delicatessen in Minneapolis and Cecil’s in St. Park’s Highland Park come to mind. But that eye-roll-back-in-your-head joy that comes from eating great deli was mostly missing.

Just one bite of Pastrami Jack’s’ Reuben, however and the feeling returns.
“We wondered why is it we don’t have a good deli in the Twin Cities,” said Jack Kohler, one of the two guys named Jack who opened Pastrami Jack’s.
“We’re actually brothers, our mom just decided to call us both Jack,” added Spencer, clearly the jokester of the pair.

Opened a little more than a year ago, Pastrami Jack’s has all the basics of a great deli – the meats, the breads, the pickles, the sides, soups, deserts, even the drinks. And the preparation is top notch. About the only thing missing is the atmosphere, but unless the two Jacks can find a way to import a couple dozen denizens or so from New York’s East Village to hang out in the joint, well, that’s just the way it is.

The signature sandwiches are the grilled Reuben’s, and that’s what newcomers should order on a first visit. Jack’s Reuben ($13.95) is corned beef and pastrami, Swiss cheese and sauerkraut served on caraway rye, then grilled and served with Russian dressing on the side. It’s to die for.
As the menu says, the hot pastrami is peppered, smoked and steamed to perfection. The corned beef is boiled in spices for hours and all but melts in your mouth.

If the food tastes a bit beyond Minnesota nice, there’s a reason. Almost all of the meat and food served at Pastrami Jack’s is shipped in from the East Coast.

“There were no local food services that had the actual food we wanted to serve,” said Jack Spencer. “Most of our meat comes from the East Coast. Our mustard and pickles come from the East Coast. The pastrami, the corned beef, the turkey, just about everything.”

The restaurant staff does the rest, making such staples from egg salad to tuna salad and from French fries to cheesecake.

“What don’t we make from scratch? One Jack asks the other.

“We buy cabbage and cut it up,” answers the other. “I guess we could buy cows – that’s the only way we’ll get more scratch.”

Pastrami Jack’s works hard to get the basics right.

“There are five things you have to have to be a good deli: good corned beef, good pastrami, good rye bread, matzah ball soup and cheesecake,” said Kohler. “You’re not a deli if you don’t have those five things.”

There are two full pages of Jack’s Specialty sandwiches, named for a galaxy of famous Minnesotans and others stars you’ll recognize. Sandwiches run $10.95 to $14.95, and to say they’re large, well that’s putting it mildly.

The Bob Dylan is corned beef, chopped liver and a slice of raw onion. The Rodney Dangerfield is rare roast beef with horseradish sauce on top, brisket and grilled onions on the bottom, with a layer of Swiss cheese on caraway rye. The Tom Lehman is a classic club sandwich with turkey, bacon, lettuce and tomato, served with may on the side on toasted egg bread. The Ross Geller special is turkey on the top, turkey on the bottom and Monica’s secret “moist maker” – a slice of gravy-soaked bread in the middle.

Other Jack’s Specialty sandwiches include the Frank Sinatra (your choice of up to three meats, any toppings and any cheese. You do it your way, get it?), the Harmon Killebrew (salami, pastrami and cheddar on rye), the Big Lebowski (pastrami and chopped liver on caraway rye), the Kevin Garnett (corned beef and tongue on rye), and the Coen Brothers (corned beef, chopped liver and turkey on rye).

“We tested the combinations out ourselves,” said Spencer.
“The fun part comes in naming the sandwiches,” added Kohler. “All sorts of people send us suggestions.”

Pastrami Jack’s is so smooth it’s surprising that neither owner had much experience in restaurants before they opened this one. One of the two Jacks is a former sunglasses designer, the other was an accountant.

Sandwiches are served on your choice of caraway rye, pumpernickel, wheat, egg, challah roll, H&N bagel, or wrapped in iceberg lettuce if you are counting carbs. Add lettuce, onions, tomato or cole slaw at no charge.

There’s a host of other great food at Pastrami Jack’s. The matzah ball (cup $2.95, bowl $4.50) and potato latkes ($3.95) are delicious. For desert, the homemade cheesecake ($4.95) is a standout.

There’s an extensive to go menu. A box lunch ($9.95) consisting of a sandwich, cole slaw or potato salad, pickle and a cookie, is a good deal.
Pastrami Jack’s even has beverages you can’t find many other Twin Cities locations, such as Dr. Brown’s in a car and an authentic New York egg cream ($4.50).

At present, there are no plans to expand. Both owners say running one restaurant keeps them busy enough.

“We have dreams, but no plans,” said Kohler with a laugh.
For those who share a love of great delis and deli food, seek out a copy of “America’s Great Deli’s: Recipes and Traditions from Coast to Coast” by Sheryll Bellman. For a more immediate fix, head to Pastrami Jack’s.

John Molene is a freelance writer and photographer living in West St. Paul. He can be reached at jmolene@aol.com.

Pastrami Jack’s
6407 Shady Oak Rd., Eden Prairie
952-942-9510, www.pastramijacks.com